Dublin is a city made famous by its fascinating history, affable locals and of course it’s booze.  So naturally I couldn’t wait to get out there, grab a Guinness and see for myself what makes this city tick.

I was over in Dublin visiting a friend, a Brazilian, who I had spent some time travelling with (in Brazil no less) a few years previous.  Also accompanying us was a friendly-faced Aussie who, like myself, was taking advantage of some generous chums and their sofa.  We spent our first evening together slurping red wine, swapping stories and sipping on some exquisite whiskey our amiable Aussie had brought from his travels in Cork.  We insisted he save it for his mates back home, but he insisted there was no time like the present, so it was bottoms up and off out into the night for my first pint of truly Irish Guinness.

Whelans was our venue of choice and it was a great way to kick start my long weekend in Dublin.  A warren of small music stages, dance floors and a roof terrace decked out in fairy lights, Whelans had an electric atmosphere and enough to see, do and drink till the wee hours of the morning (trust me on this).  The venue features as a quintessential Irish haunt in the film ‘PS. I love you’ and it’s easy to see why.  Despite its enormous size, the wooden decor and slightly ramshackle appearance give the place a charmingly rustic character.  After a belting rendition of some Irish song, of which the Brazilian, the Aussie and the Brit had never heard, performed raucously by the surrounding inebriated locals it was time for a burrito (for some reason Dublin is obsessed with Mexican food) and off to bed.

The rest of my trip proceeded in a similarly boozy fashion.

I visited the Guinness Storehouse; a huge exhibit, housed in the old factory, dedicated to the city’s most famous export.  It’s a tad commercial but totally worth it to get to the Gravity Bar – a glass cylinder perched on the roof where, as well as a complimentary pint of Guinness, you are treated to some absolutely stunning panoramic views of the city.  I performed a jig (read: jiggled about erratically trying to spill as little of my pint as possible) to some traditional Irish music at The Quays pubs in the Temple Bar Area.  Tried my first deliciously creamy Irish coffee at the Stage Door Cafe.  And enjoyed many an evening tucked up in some cosy Irish pub reminiscing and gossiping with my dear friend (the Aussie had left for Canada, or somewhere, at this point).

By all accounts a quintessential Dublin city break, right?

It’s often said that the pub lies at the social centre of Irish culture, and with so many great places to enjoy a bevvie Dublin really is a city that invites you to pull up a chair and grab a glass.  But there is another side to city.  Dublin has an utterly fascinating revolutionary history having endured devastating famines, political unrest and massive economic strife.  If I can urge people to do one thing in Dublin it’s to take some time to uncover this history – walk the grounds of Trinity College and visit the book of kels or visit the Kilmainham Gaol. The Gaol tour really is brilliant, giving you but a two hundred year snapshot of an incredible revolutionary era.  Given more time I should’ve loved to visit the Dublinia, Dublin’s Viking museum, or whiled away a rainy afternoon walking around the castle.

And just as there are two sides to the city there are two sides to this boozy reputation the Irish have. Many historians believe the Irish’s penchant for drinking can be linked to their troubled history.  John Waters, an Irish journalist, wrote that ‘Drinking in Ireland is not simply a convivial pastime, it is a ritualistic alternative to real life’, something I think worth bearing in mind next time you fancy heading to the emerald isle for an inebriated jolly.

According to a study highlighted by the Independent around 80% of Dublin’s tourists visit to experience this pub culture that makes it so famous.  And as much as I don’t blame them, it does seem such a shame given the historical wealth the city has to offer.  So next time you find yourself in Dublin do eat, drink, drink some more and be merry, there’s no better place for it, but do dig a little deeper than the bottom of your pint glass.  Be one of the 20% who visit not only for the booze but for the culture and the craic as well.